Ornamental Trees and Shrubs Buds
By Adriel Lindsay on March 14, 2009
The cambium is a thin layer of tissue composed during the growing season of actively dividing cells. Only these cells of both the scion and rootstock are capable of joining one to the other into an indissoluble whole.
Prepare the stock by cutting it down to the required height above soil level, for the beginner I would suggest 4 to 6 in. This should be done so that a sloping cut surface is left approximately 11 in. long. Finally a small downward cut is made half way up the slanting surface to leave a tongue.
A sliver of wood will be left behind the bud and this can be removed by bending it backwards and sideways. It is important to check that the core of the bud is not taken as well or the shell is useless. Open the T cut with the flattened end of the budding knife, slide the bud into position, trim the top level and the two flaps of bark should neatly embrace the shield.
Splice grafting is the same only without the tongue and I use it on soft-wooded clematis. Saddle grafting is used frequently for rhododendrons. R. ponticum stocks are grown on in pots on a warm bench for twelve months before working. At the appropriate season, as the sap lifts, make two slanting cuts on the scion in an upward direction to leave an inverted V like an old fashioned clothes peg.
Any suckers which appear, as they inevitably seem to, should be removed before they make too much growth. All the available food will be sent up to the terminal buds of the plant so that by October the snag of old wood to which the shoot was tied can be cut away.
I prepared them for budding by removing all the side shoots for 15 in. above soil level. My father prepared the bud sticks by pinching out the growing tips in early June and I have since discovered that this plumps up the buds by ripening the wood. My success with this first cherry, of four bud takes out of six tried, astonished the whole family.
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